Tool listings use a vocabulary that sounds precise and is not. There is no governing body grading power tool condition. Every term below is a description written by whoever is selling it, which means the useful question is always what specifically is being described.

The common terms and what they usually mean

New in box. Sealed retail packaging, never opened. The only term with a clear meaning, and even then it says nothing about how long the box sat in a hot warehouse if batteries are included.

Open box. The package has been opened. Beyond that, it covers a wide range: a returned item never used, a display unit, a kit that was opened to sell pieces separately, or a tool used once and brought back.

New other. A marketplace category rather than a condition. Usually means unused but not in original sealed packaging.

Kit broken or bare tool from kit. A combo kit split into individual pieces. These are typically genuinely unused, because the seller opened the box to separate the contents. Often the best value available.

Reconditioned or factory reconditioned. The tool went back to a facility, was inspected, repaired if necessary, and tested. Cosmetics vary. Coverage varies by program and by who is doing the reconditioning.

Used, good condition. Somebody's judgment. Could be a homeowner's twice-used drill or a tool that saw two years of daily work and got wiped down.

For parts or not working. At least this one is honest.

What to check regardless of the term

Completeness. The discount evaporates fast when the side handle, depth rod, guard, chuck key, base plate, or blade wrench is missing. Some of these parts are expensive and some are difficult to source at all for older models. Ask specifically what is included rather than assuming the photo shows everything.

Model number, exactly. Manufacturers sell similar-looking tools at different capability levels, and model numbers differ by one or two characters. Verify the number on the tool matches the number in the listing.

Battery inclusion and pack type. A listing that shows a battery in the photo but says "tool only" in the text is a common disappointment. When packs are included, note the specific pack, because platforms have several with very different output.

Coverage. Manufacturer coverage often requires proof of purchase from an approved seller, so a secondhand tool may have none regardless of age. Reconditioned programs sometimes carry their own limited coverage. Ask, and get the answer in writing rather than assuming.

Date codes. Many tools carry a date code stamped on the housing or printed on a label. It tells you when the tool was built, which matters for a "new" listing that has been sitting for years, especially if batteries are included.

The photo test

Words are cheap and photos are not. A seller with nothing to hide posts:

  • The actual tool, not a stock image
  • The nameplate and model number
  • The chuck or anvil close up
  • The battery interface
  • Every included accessory laid out

A listing with one stock photo and enthusiastic condition language deserves questions before money.

Where the real value sits

In practice, the best value on the used and open box market tends to be:

  1. Bare tools split from kits, unused, on a platform you already own.
  2. Reconditioned tools from a program that inspects and stands behind them.
  3. Clean used tools from an owner who can answer questions specifically.

The worst value is usually a "new" tool at a suspiciously low price from a seller with no detail, and any cordless deal where the price is justified by batteries of unknown age.

Ask the boring questions

Does it run. Does it include the guard. What is the exact model number. When did you buy it. What is the date code. Why are you selling it.

None of these are rude and all of them are normal. A seller who finds them annoying is telling you something useful.